The Adventure Begins…Marrakech
My wife and I were sitting at the Delta Skymiles Lounge in the International Terminal in Atlanta. With drinks in hand, we toasted our trip as we would venture into the true unknown for us, called Morocco.
How did we decide to travel to Morocco? This was as random a place as we could have chosen. What I thought was a playful text message about a Delta Skymiles Award Deal to a new route opening for Delta turned into the greatest adventure we had ever taken.
We really didn’t know what to expect. Hours of watching YouTube videos on Morocco and Marrakech had me both excited and very nervous. As prepared as I thought we were, nothing could truly have prepared us for the next week.
In 10 hours, we would be on the continent of Africa, in an Arabic-speaking country, with customs that are unfamiliar to us. A kiss and another drink were the only things remaining before boarding the plane. We were on our way.
To read about our journey to the Sahara Desert, including our trek to our campsite on camelback, click here.
To read about our final three days in Marrakech and watching the sun rise over the Atlas Mountains from a hot air balloon, click here.
Arrival in Marrakech, Morocco
As the YouTube videos warned, the Border Control Officers were serious. My smile was not returned. I provided my wife with a copy of our itinerary as we were processed separately. I knew our plans by heart. Still, when asked, I was definitely intimidated and fumbled over my words. It didn’t help that I had issues understanding his English. But he was doing his job. And he did it well.
Though I was nervous about the process, we got through security quickly.
The next warning from YouTube cautioned to expect haggling with taxi drivers at the airport. That wasn’t the case at all. The taxi stand clearly showed the price we would be charged. Roughly $15 US dollars felt very reasonable.
But the adventure started when the assigned driver waved us to come to his taxi. Our backpacks and one of our two suitcases fit in the trunk. The other suitcase was a passenger in the front seat of the taxi.
I am not sure how drivable the car was. The heat, defogger, and windshield wipers did not work. As he drove away from the airport, I trusted he could see the road because I could not.
The roads were chaotic. Trucks, cars, motorcycles, mopeds, and even bicycles weaved in and out of the lanes (and I use the term lanes loosely). Once inside the Medina, the roads were less hectic, but narrow. We were even delayed by a donkey using the same narrow alleyway.
He brought us to the center of the market, as far as he could drive, and motioned where our riad was located. Take the first left, and then it would be on the right side. We took a deep breath and made our way per his instructions.
Our First Challenge, Finding our Riad
We didn’t know, or appreciate, that the Medina is a maze, and Google Maps wasn’t much help. We found Apple Maps to be better at times, but not always.
Our luggage took a beating as we walked through the uneven red dirt pathways and alleys, as we looked for our riad. Tensions and frustration between us were high. According to Google Maps, we “arrived” at our riad, but the building in front of us had been reduced to rubble. We looked at each other in disbelief. For a brief moment, I wondered if we had made a mistake coming here.
Our search for the riad continued. After 30 minutes of wandering around, not sure where we were or whether to trust Google Maps, we finally found our riad.
Riad Tahyra was a hidden gem
We were warmly greeted by a gentleman who couldn’t speak English. But the little French I knew, plus pointing fingers and motioning with my hands, was enough to get past the language barrier. He quickly brought us some mint tea and a couple of treats as he organized the paperwork and photocopied our passports. As we sat on a velour sofa in the parlour, we felt as if a family was welcoming us into their home.
We were 6 hours early for check-in, but he took our luggage to storage, and we ventured out.
Navigating the Medina by Foot
The merchants were in the process of preparing their wares to sell. Busily setting up shop and sweeping the dirt floors and alleys. One shop next to another for as far as you could see, the merchants appeared to be happily bantering back and forth in what I believed was Arabic. I had never felt further from the comfort of home.
We walked to the Kutubiyya Mosque and met a state-sanctioned guide who helped us without the expectation of money. To say I was skeptical would have been an understatement. But he explained that Marrakech was preparing to host the African Cup and World Cup in the next few years, and they wanted to give the best impression of Marrakech.
He offered to walk us to the Secret Garden.
But there was a catch.
He dropped us off at a carpet merchant on our way to the garden. The carpet merchant then dropped us off at a spice merchant. Neither was pushy and accepted our “No thank you” without a problem. But it left us wondering, was the guide getting a kickback for driving traffic to these stores?
The Secret Garden
The Secret Garden was nice. A quiet place in the middle of a very busy marketplace that surrounds it.
We went to the Garden’s cafe for more mint tea and a dried fruit and nut pie. Both were delicious! We were both tired, and this was our first opportunity to actually relax.
Shakedown in the Souks?
On our way back to the riad to unpack and take a quick nap, we walked through the Souks. My wife stopped to look at some jewelry at one of the shops. She balked at the price the young merchant wanted and told him she didn’t have that much money with her. He came out of his shop and demanded that I show him how much money was in my pockets. I laughed at his attempt, and we walked away. I think he didn’t get the memo on making the best impression of Marrakech.
LaPergola Rooftop Jazz Bar
After our quick nap at the Riad, we ventured out to dinner at a rooftop jazz place, La Pergola Rooftop Jazz Bar. Navigating to the restaurant was another maze, but we eventually found it. The meal we had was terrific, and the live jazz was so unexpected in Marrakech! We sat under the pergola with hanging multi-colored umbrellas and enjoyed the vibe.
Jemaa El-Fnaa was Absolutely Electric!
We went to the Jemaa El-Fnaa Square after dinner. We walked and watched, taking in all the sights, sounds, and smells. The snake charmers with their instruments and women offering henna tattoos were trying to lure you in (and then demand money). Food stalls were in the middle of the square, offering juices, roasted meats, Moroccan specialties, and even snail soup. It was unlike anything I have ever seen. Sensory overload in one respect, yet pulling me in wanting more!
We went back into the Souks and finally bought something from a merchant. Our haggling skills are not up to par, but we didn’t pay more than we wanted. We would have to practice before we return.
The streets and alleys remind me of James Bond or Raiders of the Lost Ark movies. Pure chaos! Honestly, I would be afraid of losing a child in the crowd. Scooters, bikes, and donkey-drawn carts share the alleyways with those walking.
There is an energy that is hard to describe. Intimidating at first and infectious by the end of the day.
By this time, the maze of alleyways started to make sense, and we found it easy to get back to the Riad.
Best Advice About Marrakech from YouTube – Stay in a Riad
Our room at the riad was spacious and comfortable. The tilework and aesthetics gave it all a very authentic Moroccan feel.
The young host asked us if we had everything we needed. I had mapped out where the excursion company asked us to meet them for pickup the next morning. It seemed far away. I asked if I was correctly understanding the directions. She immediately called the excursion company and had them change the location to a place only a 5-minute walk away. What a Godsend she was! Before saying good night, she invited us back to the Riad for mint tea and conversation when we returned from our excursion.
Again, we were welcomed like family!
Our stay at Riad Tahyra was only for one night. The next morning, we were leaving for a three-day trip to the Sahara Desert! Click Here to follow our journey to the Sahara Desert!
My initial thoughts after our first day in Marrakech?
- My apprehension about Marrakech was completely unfounded. The people we met, other than the aggressive merchant, were warm and inviting.
- The Souks and Jemaa El-Fnaa Square were as advertised! Energetic and confusing, yet compelling!
- The Riad Tahyra was absolutely stunning with a gorgeous courtyard. Yet it was just feet from the rubble of a fallen building.
- Cats rule the alleys and passageways.
There were so many places I found while walking around. But I would have to wait to visit until we returned from the Sahara. Off to the next adventure!
