Day 2 in Morocco – On Our Way to Merzouga
We left our Riad about 5:30 AM to walk to the pickup spot for our Sahara Desert excursion.
To read about our first day in Marrakech and my initial impressions, click here.
To read about our final three days in Marrakech, including watching the sun rise over the Atlas Mountains in a hot air balloon, click here.
It was a relatively short walk. We passed the juice vendors in Jemaa El-Fnaa, setting up for the day. They never miss an opportunity to have you taste their fresh juice, calling us over as we walk by. “Next time!” I promised.
There were several groups meeting at the same spot. We were given vague instructions as to how to identify our van. There were 50 or so people waiting at that spot, yet somehow our guide spotted us and welcomed us to the group.
The van was very nice—but tight for this excited group.
The group was very diverse. It included some college students from the United States who were studying abroad for a semester. A three-generational family from Spain who turned out to be very interesting. And then a few random couples and a solo traveler.
As we were going to be together for three days, I was thankful that it was a great group of travelers.
Getting out of the Medina took forever. None of the streets or alleyways were built with two-way traffic in mind.
Once we left the Medina, I looked out the window watching the vans, cars, trucks, scooters, and bikes competing for tight, crowded spaces. I am actually convinced that the lines on the road are suggestions, not law. Our driver, as well as seemingly everyone else, would pass slower vehicles on the left, even with oncoming traffic. For a slow, safe driver like me, I was scared out of my wits!
The Atlas Mountains (an Unexpected Highlight)
To get to our destination, we had to traverse through the Atlas Mountains.
I’ll be honest, I had never heard of the Atlas Mountains before this trip. Having grown up in Vermont, I always had a love and appreciation for mountains and the surrounding landscape. The Atlas Mountains blew me away!
The mountains were beautiful, with some snow-capped. Unlike Vermont, where the maple and pine trees gave a soft, lush appearance, the Atlas Mountains had steep, hard, rocky terrain.
The roads up and down the Atlas Mountains were tight and windy. Rockslides caused a few road detours. Essentially, we were offroading it in a passenger van! My wife slept through much of it. I couldn’t. There are times in life when you have to let go and trust that you are in good hands. That was me. But as much as I wanted to trust, I had to watch it all—and it was scary at times.
As we drove through the mountains, I saw people walking along the steep mountain roads with nothing else in sight for miles. Occasionally, I would see homes and villages built into the side of the mountain, many appearing to be built out of some red clay.
The houses varied along the way. Some were big and mansion-like, while others were on the verge of rubble. There were many new homes under construction, but they seemed abandoned. I’m not sure what the story was behind that, but I was making one up as we passed one house after another that appeared half-finished.
The contrast of the haves and have-nots could not be more stark. It made me grateful for the shelter over my head at home.
Life Along the Road
For miles, all we would see is jagged rocks and dirt, often with the Atlas Mountains in the background.
Then we would pass through these towns that popped up out of nowhere. Lots of children playing and riding bicycles near their school. And though the terrain was rocky, they were playing as we would in the grass.
Much of the road was alongside dry riverbeds. These rivers must be overflowing in the spring and early summer when the snow from the Atlas Mountains melts. But this time of year, they lie barren.
I was surprised by the white birch trees along the way. Since leaving New England, I don’t recall them growing in the south or midwest in the United States. It was a nice memory from my childhood.
Old women carried harvested olives from the groves. Their harvest, picked by hand, was wrapped in a large blanket and carried over their shoulders. Looking at their weathered faces as the olive-filled blankets they carried were nearly as big as the women themselves, gave me an appreciation for the effort that goes into the food on my table.
Stops Along the Way
We made several stops along the way, some required by law (for the safety of the passengers), some to take in the spectacular views of the Atlas Mountains and valleys below, and others for the cultural significance.
Our visit to the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Ksar of Ait-Ben-Haddou, was magnificent. This was the backdrop for the movie Gladiator, as well as many others. It was somewhat of a strenuous climb to the top, but our guide would stop along the way to point something out or tell a story. These were welcomed breaks to catch our breath!
El Kelaa M’Gouna, known as Rose Valley, was a beautiful little town. I enjoyed sipping mint tea while taking in my surroundings. It was such a quiet, peaceful moment. I was tempted to look at the pictures I had taken on my phone so far, but instead, I put my phone down and just observed, being present in the moment.
We finally arrived at the Riad for the night. Hotel Amazigh was a charming Bed & Breakfast with spectacular views. We enjoyed a nice buffet-style dinner, and the servers and chef seemed delighted that we were devouring everything they put out.
After dinner, the hosts and their family entertained us with traditional music. Four generations of the family, the youngest probably 3 or 4 years old, played instruments and banged drums as the guests danced. It felt so authentic and not at all staged.
My wife and I, still recovering from the lack of sleep from our flight to Marrakech, decided to go to bed before the party was over. As we lay in bed, we could hear the beat of the music change. All of a sudden, we heard “We Will Rock You” and “Bang the Drum All Day” coming from above! The Study-Abroad students in our group took over the instruments and played until the wee hours of the morning. We heard the next morning, some even went for a swim in the pool, braving the sub-40 degree weather. Oh, it must be good to be young!
Day 3 in Morocco – Hello Sahara!
I wrote this from our tent in the Sahara Desert at midnight. I was blown away by the emotions from what we experienced today.
The People We Meet
We left the Riad and made our way to a Berber carpet cooperative. We were given a tour of the building and brought to a room where a young lady was weaving a carpet as an elder of the cooperative spoke on the rich tradition of the Berber carpetmaking. The presentation ended with an opportunity to buy an authentic Berber carpet. Ancient craftsmanship met modern technology as we tapped our credit card on their machine. Yes, we bought a carpet. How could we not?
Outside, a young Berber girl, maybe 8 or 9 years old, was hustling while her two friends sat quietly. She came up to me and tried speaking to me. First in French, then Spanish, and finally in English. At this young age, she could already speak at least five languages (Berber, Arabic, and the three she tried on me!).
She asked for some money. I asked if I could take a picture with her friends. She quickly said yes. Then I stopped and asked, “Will you share the money with your friends”? She said she would. It was so cute, and she stole my heart.
We left and were then introduced to our Berber guide, Cous Cous. Oh my God, what a character!
Cous Cous was about 6’4”, wearing a hooded robe (called a Djellaba) and a turban (called a Tagelmust). Very handsome, his blue eyeliner and eyeshadow added an element of intrigue and mystery to this man. And the way he moved from place to place was out of a movie scene, with the robe flowing and his mesmerizing eyes.
Throughout his tour, he referred to himself in the third person. I wondered if this was truly who he was or if Cous Cous was merely a character he played. But his message was beautiful; he wanted us to love and accept one another. Simple, but profound.
Small Moments, Big Lessons
Cous Cous led us through an olive grove. As we walked past some olive trees, I grabbed a green olive, brushed it off on my jacket, and popped it in my mouth. It was so delicious! Later on the walk, I saw a dark olive and did the same. What a mistake! This had to be one of the nastiest things I’ve ever tasted. Live and learn, right?
We left the Todra Gorge, back in the van, and on our way to Merzouga in the Sahara Desert. Cous Cous would not be forgotten, though. More on that later.
As the sun was quickly setting, we raced to make it to Merzouga in time to ride the camels to the camp as the sun set for the evening. We made it just in time, but no thanks to the camel blocking the road in the middle of nowhere (that reminded me of living in New Hampshire when a herd of cattle blocked the road we were on).
The Camel Ride into the Sahara
It was an unforgettable experience riding a camel in the Sahara Desert.
The sun would soon set and we had a two mile journey to our campsite. Mounted eight feet in the air on this creature, tears started to well up in my eyes. I felt so blessed to witness sunset in the Sahara on the back of a camel.
But within minutes, I needed to snap back to the here and now as the large mammal started down a sand dune. My body plunged forward, and I had to hang on for dear life as my camera dangled off my neck! I got a few good pictures with my camera, but a million more with my mind’s eye.
A Night Under the Stars
We arrived at the campsite in complete darkness. We walked through the sand, up and down the dunes, led by the flashlight on our iPhones. The heavy sand moved under our feet as we trudged on, similar to walking through deep, heavy snow.
Our luxury tent was complete with a bathroom and shower. Yes, we were roughing it.
We ate dinner with a couple from Italy and Belgium. Afterwards, the four of us talked for hours by a campfire. Every star in the galaxy showed that night. It was absolutely surreal! Never have I seen so many stars! The next day others said they saw dozens of shooting stars, but I only witnessed a few.
As I laid in bed that night, covered in several heavy blankets as the temperature was in the low 30’s, I reflected on life. So few would ever experience what I am blessed to enjoy. I was actually living as George Bailey in “It’s a Wonderful Life” had only dreamed of.
Day 4 in Morocco – Our Travels Back to Marrakech
After a freezing night in the desert, we had a quick breakfast, and then it was time to climb back up on the camel for the 90 minute ride back to our transport.
There were eight of us who rode the camels to the campsite, but only four of us returned for the trek during sunrise. My wife opted to take the Jeep back. I understood, it was cold and the physical effort required was much more than we expected. Horseback riding is effortless in comparison.
But I was not going to miss this opportunity.
As luck would have it, they put me on a younger, somewhat stubborn, camel. I’m not sure there is such a thing as a graceful camel, but if there is, this guy was not one. Quickly he let me know who was boss. Needing the extra hand to hold on to the harness, I wasn’t able to take as many photographs as I wanted while perched on top of this creature.
But what I witnessed, I will never forget.
I am actually tearing up as I write this…
Sunrise in the Sahara (Best Moment)
As the sun started to rise, the sky’s color moved from a deep purple/blue, into a beautiful deep red, and then a pink or magenta right before the sun approached the horizon. As the sun met the horizon, the sky turned from a vibrant orange to an intense gold, finishing with an increasingly brilliant blue sky.
And the sand dunes were just as beautiful. I’ll never forget how the brown dunes transformed to a beautiful shade of red, pink, orange, and then a stunning gold before returning to normal some twenty minutes later.
It all happened so fast, but it was so magical. I honestly could not believe my eyes. It seemed supernatural. It didn’t feel real—and maybe that’s why it will stay with me forever.
The Long Road Back
The trip back to Marrakech took about 10 hours. I should have slept, but instead I took in the terrain, villages, and mountains.
We arrived back at the Medina in the early evening to the place we would call home for the next 4 nights, Riad Marraplace.
One Final Connection
We took a quick shower to remove the sand from the desert and then had a late dinner at Otto, a trendy, fusion-type restaurant.
The rooftop restaurant was special with the illuminated Mosque close by.
An Irish woman was seated next to us. She shared her spiritual journey, or maybe better described as her mystical journey, with us. Her stories were fascinating, but it wasn’t necessarily what she said as much as what she didn’t say that left the endings to our imagination.
Wearing a scarf over her head with piercing blue eyes, she shared so many characteristics and views as our guide, Cous Cous. We told her she would love to be in the presence of him and shared where we met him. She teased that she would seek him out. I wonder if she did.
We finished our meal, hugged our new friend, and made our way back to the Riad for some well deserved rest. Tomorrow we go deep into the Souks, Medina, and Jemaa El-Fnaa!
