Our Final Days in Marrakech
Day 5 in Morocco – Taking it easy in Jemaa El-Fnaa
For the first time since arriving in Morocco, we slept in. Our bodies told us to take it easy, and we listened.
To read my initial impressions of Marrakech, click here.
To read about my Sahara Desert by Camel Journey, click here.
We leisurely enjoyed breakfast on the rooftop terrace of our Riad. I actually think it was the first cup of brewed coffee I had since leaving home. It was a very peaceful way to start our day.
I ventured out and about in the square, Jemaa El-Fnaa, while my wife had to do some work. Morning in the square felt completely different from the evening. It was busy, but for Jemaa El-Fnaa, it was a low-key busy.
I sat outdoors at a cafe overlooking the square, people-watching as I sipped an Americano or two.
Feeling confident, I took my last sip and decided now was the time to test my skills in the Souk.
Everything is Negotiable in Marrakech
Haggling is expected in Marrakech. The first price is never the final price; it’s just a starting point. For them, this is daily life. For me, this felt deeply uncomfortable. And it showed.
I was so bad at haggling that I think the tea merchant took pity on me. He didn’t charge me full price and actually threw in an extra item at no cost.
After dinner, we returned to the Souks. Maybe I was looking for a little redemption for my failed effort earlier in the day. Or maybe I remembered that when you fall off your bike, you get back on it. Either way, I wasn’t as intimidated as before.
Snail Soup Anyone?
On our way back to our Riad, we passed the food stalls in the square.
Having watched hours of videos on YouTube of the different food stalls, it was the snail soup stall that most intrigued me.
I couldn’t pass on the opportunity to give it a try, even knowing my wife would probably not kiss me for a day or two.
The bearded vendor, standing on a platform, scooped the snails and broth into a bowl and handed it to me, motioning to the toothpicks on the counter. Ah! That’s how to get the snails out!
The snails were absolutely delicious, but it was the broth that was the real star. The aroma and warmth of anise, cinnamon, ginger, and cumin were so comforting. I even heard the broth has some healing qualities.
It was so good, I returned each of the next two days!
Day 6 – Hot Air Ballooning in Marrakech
Our alarm went off at 5:30 am.
My wife and I were being picked up at 6:15 for our next excursion, and my nerves were on edge.
Watching the Sun Rise over the Atlas Mountains from a Hot Air Balloon
I am the type of person who gets lightheaded climbing a ladder. Yet somehow I allowed my wife to convince me to take a hot air balloon ride in Morocco.
As our group waited for the balloons to be filled, it seemed to me that there were two types of participants. Eager and excited or nervous and anxious. I was in the latter group.
But once we climbed into the basket, my nerves went away.
There were dozens of balloons dotting the flat, rocky terrain. If this takes place nearly every day, it must be safe, or so I told myself. I said a quick prayer and let go.
Watching the sun rise over the Atlas Mountains from the sky is one of the most peaceful and beautiful experiences of my life.
Other than the occasional sound of fire fueling the balloon and the murmur of others in the basket, there was a beautiful kind of silence as we ballooned up to 3,500 feet above the ground.
Each balloon drifted across the sky at different heights and speeds as the sky transformed into fiery shades of orange as the sun climbed from behind the Atlas Mountains. Sunrise from this vantage point left me speechless, basking in the splendor of the moment.
I thought to myself, here I am, the person scared to climb a ladder, 3,500 feet in the air in a hot air balloon, and feeling totally at peace.
Turning over the Reins
Our descent from the sky and landing were memorable, but for a different reason.
Our pilot was the captain for the ballooning company. A big, jolly German with thousands of flights under his belt. We were in good hands.
He had a student by his side, learning to pilot hot air balloons.
Consumed with the beauty of the sunrise and the peacefulness in the sky, I failed to notice that our pilot had turned over control to the student.
And it was the student’s first landing.
For a brief moment, my nerves started to kick in again.
Flying mere feet from the ground, the wind had us coming in too hot to safely land.
After 5 failed attempts to set the balloon down, the captain finally took over with a remarkably soft landing.
I was relieved, but also enjoyed the added thrill!
Palais de Bahia
With my adrenaline still pumping, we returned to the Medina for a cup of mint tea and a moment of relaxation. As we took in the views from the cafe, the debate became, where should we go next?
We opted for the Palais de Bahia.
The palace is known for its beautiful architecture and intricate details. Each window, doorway, and painted ceiling revealed remarkable design and craftsmanship. It also provided the perfect backdrop for photographs of my wife, whose outfit complemented the rich wood colors.
The mosaic tiles throughout the palace popped with hues of blue, green, and gold. It felt very regal.
Even as busy as it was that afternoon, the gardens and courtyards gave me a feeling of tranquility.
Unfortunately, the palace is under extensive renovation. It was disappointing that certain areas were off limits, and made the palace feel more crowded than it probably was.
Yet, even under renovation, the Palais de Bahia felt like stepping into another century.
Day 7 – Chill Day turned into a party!
Le Jardin de Majorelle
Our last day in Marrakech started early with a (long) walk to Le Jardin de Majorelle.
I made reservations for 8:30 am, and this was one of my smartest decisions.
Lines were outrageously long, and the gardens became more crowded with each passing minute. We were the first or second group allowed in the gardens that morning, so we made our way through without fighting the crowds.
Yves Saint Laurent’s restoration of these gardens was magnificent! Beautiful and well organized. I don’t think I have ever seen so many varieties of cacti.
But not so many flowers…if there were any at all.
Learning the backstory of how the gardens were in disrepair and overgrown, YSL’s commitment to restore them to their former glory was a remarkable endeavor.
If I ever return to Marrakech, Le Jardin de Majorelle will be high on my list to visit again.
Lost in the Souks
My wife found a Hammam (which I can best describe as a traditional Moroccan spa) as we were returning to the Medina. This was her opportunity to be pampered.
It also meant I was on my own for almost 4 hours.
I returned to the Souks to find some gifts for my granddaughters.
The crowded alleys were intimidating—people shoulder to shoulder with the occasional scooter nipping at your heels, pressuring you to move to the side.
I explored deep into the maze of shops along the dirt and cobblestone alleyways. There is no way to navigate the Souks with any true sense of direction. Twice, I became disoriented and ended up at a dead end with no one in sight.
Finally, I saw some sunlight! I quickly walked towards the light, hoping to get outside to gain some sense of my whereabouts. But the light was merely coming from a hole in the roof. I was seriously lost.
Frustrated, I selected one direction and didn’t veer from it. Finally, I found an active area. More people, more stores, and much relief!
I found a shop with the kind of trinkets I wanted to get for my granddaughters. The merchant was kind…or conniving. I am not sure which. But I did buy from him after my best effort at haggling. I was happy with the price, though I still probably paid too much.
Our final evening, what a party!
We chose to end our trip with a Moroccan Dinner and show. After much research, I made reservations at Safran by Kôya.
And it did not disappoint.
The food was outstanding, and the show of belly dancers, magicians, and musicians performing among the diners made it a memorable experience. We danced and drank, and danced some more.
We actually closed the place down!
I felt like I was half my age, dancing with my wife and letting go of the normally conservative me. Great music and tremendous energy until the wee hours of the night!
What I expected to be a day of relaxation turned into a spirited and memorable ending to our wonderful vacation in Marrakech.
What I liked least about Marrakech and Morocco?
Haggling with every merchant became tiresome. It was different and challenging at first, but by the end, I just wanted to know the price.
Much of Marrakech was under construction as a result of a major earthquake a few years back and in preparation for the World Cup in 2030. The sound of Jemaa El-Fnaa’s bustling markets and stalls was drowned out by the constant jackhammers and construction equipment during the day.
And by the fourth day in Marrakech, the excitement of discovery had started to give way to familiarity.
What I like most about Marrakech and Morocco?
My initial thought was just about everything other than what I liked least. There is really so much to like about both!
Our Sahara Desert and Hot Air Balloon excursions were beyond my expectations. Both moved me deeply. I’ll never forget either experience.
The Moroccan people were incredibly friendly and hospitable.
Culturally and geographically, Morocco was so different than anything I have ever experienced in my 60-plus years. I was out of my comfort zone, but I embraced every moment and came away with a better appreciation for the people and the country.
The Riads are so beautiful and the hosts so welcoming. The best way I can describe them would be similar to a Bed & Breakfast, but different. The courtyards, fountains, tilework, and architecture give a feeling of yesteryear.
The food was delicious, and the traditional tagine was amazing. The Berber and Arab influence reminded me of Middle Eastern cooking, just with a touch of French and Spanish impact.
The rooftop bars and restaurants were lively with views of the Medina. And the dinner and show will not soon be forgotten.
Jemaa El-Fnaa at night is turbo-charged with incredible sights, smells, sounds, and energy! The square is lit by the food stalls, and the air is filled with the smoke from roasted meats. Horns and drums are being played while the snake charmers mesmerize the cobras with their flutes. There is so much to absorb!
What I wish I had done differently?
There were a couple of culinary adventures I missed out on, like the roasted lamb head and the fish fry. I should have made time for those experiences.
Of the historical sites I wanted to see, Madrasa Ben Youssef was the only one I missed. I could have gone to the former Islamic college while my wife worked, but I thought we would find time together to go.
Lastly, I wish we had taken a day trip to Fes or Casablanca. Or maybe to Chefchaouen, Morocco’s Blue City. Sounds like I need to visit Morocco again, doesn’t it?
Marrakech, my final thoughts…
Our once-in-a-lifetime experience was likely just that…only once.
And that is not because there was anything wrong with Marrakech.
It was as exhilarating and beautiful as it was hectic and exhausting.
There is a certain mystique about Marrakech. It was as though I had been dropped in the middle of a movie scene, complete with twists and turns that resembled the maze of alleyways.
I will someday return to Morocco to visit other cities. Who knows, maybe even a few days in Marrakech.
Lastly, I would be remiss if I failed to mention the calls to prayer that would ring out throughout the day over loudspeakers. I found they provided me with a sense of spirituality. Regardless of your faith, sometimes we all need a reminder to pray.
