Day 5 – Leaving Queenstown Towards Christchurch
We left Queenstown early Tuesday morning and began our drive toward Christchurch, our northernmost destination on New Zealand’s South Island.
To read about our stay in Queenstown and our excursion to the Eighth Wonder of the World, Milford Sound, click here.
This was the first time we drove in New Zealand since our day trip to Glenorchy.
I would like to tell you that I quickly adapted to driving on the left side of the road, but I can’t.
Within seconds of leaving the hotel, I was driving on the right side.
Thank goodness there was no oncoming traffic.
I made a quick correction and continued to remind myself—stay left!
Arrowtown and its Gold Rush History
Our first stop was in Arrowtown, a quiet town less than 15 miles from Queenstown.
We walked around Buckingham Street. For a Tuesday morning, it was as quiet as could be. There were a few coffee shops open, but little else was going on.
We grabbed breakfast and coffee and sat outside in the crisp morning air, watching a nearly empty Buckingham Street slowly wake up.
Arrowtown felt as though we had stepped back in time. Quaint storefronts lined the street. The buildings had charm, preserved from yesteryear. It was simple living at its best.
Arrowtown’s gold rush in the 1860s brought miners from around the world. Among them were Chinese miners who settled in Arrowtown and built simple huts and a general store.
We surveyed the Historic Chinese Settlement and the living conditions endured by the miners, not to mention the discrimination during and after the gold rush.
On one hand, I admire their courage, but I wonder how much of it was motivated by desperation. It couldn’t have been easy.
Standing among the tiny huts, it was difficult to imagine leaving everything behind and traveling halfway around the world for the chance at a better life. The conditions were harsh enough. Facing discrimination on top of that made the challenge even greater.
Learning that many never returned home, primarily because the gamble didn’t pay off, added another layer of heartbreak to their story.
“That Wanaka Tree”
Our next stop was Lake Wanaka to see the famous “That Wanaka Tree.”
There are probably few trees in the world that someone would drive over an hour just to look at. That Wanaka Tree is one of them.
Growing roughly 80 feet from the shore in Lake Wanaka, the lone willow tree has become a symbol of perseverance and resolve.
Pictures and paintings of the tree are recognizable by even the casual observer.
I had so many questions running through my head as I looked at this tree, alone in the lake.
How has it survived all these years?
Did the lake eventually expand and engulf the tree?
What was it about the tree that would draw so many people to view it?
I didn’t answer any of these questions. But I came away with my own thoughts.
As it stood alone, in solitude, it was an expression of personal strength.
In a forest, trees survive together. This one seemed to be doing it alone.
Beyond the symbolism, with the Southern Alps as its backdrop, the tree was simple in its beauty.
I had hoped the lake would be calm, allowing me to take pictures of the tree with the Southern Alps reflecting off the lake, but a steady wind made the lake’s surface a bit choppy.
Still, it was well worth the drive to see That Wanaka Tree.
We grabbed lunch and a beer across the street at the Big Fig before walking around the town.
It was one of those perfect South Island afternoons where the sun was trying to shine through the clouds, and nobody seemed in a hurry (including us).
My One Regret in New Zealand
New Zealand is famous for its Merino wool. I rarely buy souvenirs when I travel, but I thought a nice Merino wool sweater would be a memorable keepsake from our trip.
As we walked through the stores in Wanaka, I found several sweaters that looked good and fit well. But I just couldn’t pull the trigger. I had sticker shock. Never have I spent that much on a sweater, and it left me hemming and hawing.
I left Wanaka without a sweater. I still regret it.
Cocktails and a Thousand Bras
Our hotel for the night was about a half hour south of Wanaka, in the town of Cardrona.
Just before reaching our hotel, we saw a distillery on the left side of the road and decided to visit for a cocktail.
As we turned into the entrance, a fence covered in bras lined the driveway to the distillery.
What in the world was this?
As we sat outside enjoying our drinks, I did a quick Google search and discovered this fence had a name, Bradrona.
Bradrona has to be one of the most unusual tourist attractions I’ve ever encountered, but it gave us a good laugh and a memorable stop along the way.
Thousands of bras were draped over the fence. Apparently, over the last twenty-plus years, people have added their undergarments to the collection. Some looked more weathered than others, but it appears the tradition continues.
I asked my wife if she wanted to add to the collection. That amused her almost as much as did my driving—not at all!
Cardrona Hotel
This Instagram-worthy hotel front looks like it should be on a postcard. With an old truck parked out front, a number of cars stopped alongside the road to take a picture of this iconic hotel.
Built in the 1860s during the area’s gold rush, inside the hotel is a small glass floor, providing a glimpse into a mine.
Each of the hotel rooms was named. Our room, #19, was named Roaring Meg!
As my wife took a short nap, I went to the pub for a beer and asked how our room got its name.
Expecting some story involving a young lady during the gold rush, I was surprised to learn it was named for a river, The Roaring Meg, not far (as the crow flies) from the hotel. The story I had made up was more interesting…
The hotel itself is a gem. Dark wood floors with rustic woodwork throughout, they have beautifully maintained the look and feel of days gone by.
Our room’s door had to be older than I am. It even had a small hole I could look through to see the yard outside our room.
The courtyard had a fireplace in the middle, flanked by picnic tables, chairs, and enclosed glass rooms for dining or escaping the elements.
As the evening air started to cool, my wife and I opted to enjoy dinner in one of the glass rooms. I laughed as I felt like a goldfish inside a bowl, looking out at those looking in.
My dinner was exceptional.
If you read my prior post on our stay in Queenstown and the excursion to Milford Sound, I haven’t discussed our meals in detail. Up to this point, the venison at the Kinross Winery was the best dish.
The Cardrona Hotel’s venison was far superior, and that’s no slight to Kinross. It is an extreme compliment to the chef at the hotel.
The Perfect Ending to an Amazing Day
The sun had set, and the courtyard was comfortably lit with lights strung above and the roaring fireplace.
My wife and I sat on the edge of the fireplace with a glass of Pinot Noir in hand.
With the wood crackling in the fireplace and the warmth and glow of the fire kissing our faces, I couldn’t think of a better way to end the day.
