Morocco was the destination on this trip that pushed us furthest beyond what felt familiar. Marrakech was beautiful, chaotic, welcoming, confusing, and unlike anywhere we had traveled before. The Sahara was even more extraordinary than I had imagined.
After returning home, I realized the trip had left me with as many questions as answers. So rather than write another traditional itinerary, I wanted to look back honestly at what surprised us, what challenged us, what we loved, and what we would do differently.
I have three blog posts on our trip to Morocco, each describing where we visited, what we experienced, what we felt, and a little bit on what we ate.
This Q&A is part of our Morocco series. You can also read about our first impressions of Marrakech, our overnight camel trek in the Sahara, and our final three days exploring Marrakech.
Our quick take: Morocco exceeded our expectations. Marrakech felt chaotic at times but never unsafe, staying in a riad greatly enhanced the experience, and the journey to the Sahara was long but absolutely worthwhile. We would return to Morocco, although next time we would include more destinations beyond Marrakech.
Was Morocco what you expected?
To be honest, I wasn’t sure what to expect. Morocco and Marrakech were really mysteries to me.
The internet painted a beautiful picture of Marrakech, known as the Red City. And it was.
But there were aspects of Marrakech that I think you have to experience in person. No video would do it justice.
Contrasting Realities
Morocco was full of contrasts. In one moment, we would see a donkey pulling a cart; in the next, a Mercedes-Benz would pass beside it. Traditional ways of life existed alongside smartphones, modern vehicles, and constant connectivity.
Roadways
I was amazed by the roads being shared by trucks, buses, cars, scooters, bicycles, and donkeys. And they were all in close proximity to each other. Yet somehow, almost like it was orchestrated, they weaved in and out without incident. I would not be able to drive anywhere near Marrakech.
Language Barriers
Or lack thereof may be the better way to put it.
I tried learning some common phrases in Arabic before arriving in Morocco. But that language was very difficult for me. So I figured I would be leaning on my limited French abilities.
No need.
With the exception of our initial interaction with an employee at the riad we stayed the first night, everyone spoke English very well.
Unanswered Questions
On our way from Marrakech to Merzouga, we passed many large homes and buildings that appeared unfinished, although there was no obvious construction underway. I found myself wondering whether this was temporary, financial, cultural, or simply a normal pace of construction in the region. Our guide did not have an answer, so the question stayed with me.
Is Marrakech really as chaotic as everyone says?
Having watched several YouTube videos about Marrakech, I was prepared for a very chaotic scene. And trust me, the chaos in the souks is real. But the medina and Jemaa El-Fnaa were much less chaotic than advertised.
Well, that’s not totally true.
Jemaa El-Fnaa’s energy at night is crazy! Lights, sounds, smoke, and smells fill the air! So much to take in and process. It lived up to the hype!
There were a few moments in the souks when I felt overwhelmed. Too many people were too close to me in the very narrow passageways. I needed to escape.
But with time, I got used to it and even found a way to contort and maneuver my body to get through these tight spaces. But even in those moments, I never felt unsafe in the crowded souks.
During the mornings and afternoons, the souks are far less crowded and easier to navigate. You are able to see all the wares of the merchants without feeling like your personal space is being violated. But you are missing out on the incredible energy in the market.
If I were to give some advice, take a deep breath and accept the situation. It is all part of the experience, and I’m glad I was right in the middle of it.
Would you stay in a riad again?
Not only would I stay in a riad again, I also wouldn’t consider staying anywhere else!
The riads where we stayed really added to the experience and gave us a glimpse into years gone by. They felt authentically Moroccan.
There is a personal feel of the riad that you don’t get from a traditional hotel. Mint tea and snacks upon arrival, wonderful rooftop breakfasts, personal care and attention from the staff to guests, and ornate details in the tilework, courtyards, and furniture.
A word of caution, the alleyways within the medina are like a maze and the signs for the riads, if any, are small and discreet. Finding your riad can pose a challenge, but it should not dissuade you from staying in one.
Are riads expensive?
There are some very expensive and very cheap riads, but we chose moderately priced (roughly $80 USD per night) stays. Still, the rooms were spacious and offered all the comforts you would expect, including breakfast and internet.
Was the Sahara camel trek actually worth it?
The time on the camel to the campsite and then back the next morning totaled 3 ½ to 4 hours. I had feared it would be a short, token ride designed mainly for the photograph. It was anything but.
This was a legitimate trek, up and down the sand dunes, on top of these massive creatures. This took some strength to hold on as the camels walked across the shifting sand beneath them. Yet somehow, one of the older members of our group handled it fine, so maybe this reflects less on the camel and more on my fitness level.
What Made the Trek So Special?
Well, I promise it isn’t the camel in front passing gas, though that was memorable.
It was special and unique to ride a camel in the Sahara Desert, but it was the spectacular sunset and sunrise that was truly magical. That memory will last forever.
And shortly after sunset, with no atmospheric interference of city lights, etc., millions of stars and galaxies were in view.
I highly recommend visiting the Sahara if you visit Morocco. You don’t have to do the camel trek. Some members of our excursion took the SUV transport to and from the campsite. But what you will experience will be amazing.
Camping in the Sahara Desert
There were two sets of campsites, one with tents and shared bathrooms and one with tents with private bathrooms. We had the latter. I can’t say we were really roughing it out in the desert. It was probably what is referred to as “glamping” more so than true camping.
With temperatures dipping to the low 30s Fahrenheit, the extra heavy blankets were the perfect touch for a good night’s sleep.
Is the Price of the Excursion Worth it?
As our trip from Marrakech to Merzouga offered several experiences in addition to the camel trek, I think the total cost was very reasonable. But with or without those other experiences, the actual camel trek and camping in the Sahara, to me, was priceless!
How difficult was the journey to the Sahara?
The drive was long. That can’t be denied. My wife slept through much of it, but I took it all in. Even when all you could see were rocks and sand and not much else.
Many, Many Stops Along the Way
Our driver made numerous scheduled stops. We could stretch our legs, get a cappuccino, and use the facilities. But getting everyone back on the van was like herding cats, and those delays caused us to rush at a few stops.
The stop along the road in the Atlas Mountains gave us an opportunity to breathe the clean, mountain air while admiring the peaks and valleys. Our tour of the women crafting the beautiful Berber carpets using the traditional methods was fascinating (and costly, as we bought one of their carpets). And though I have not seen any of the movies filmed at Ksar of Ait-Ben-Haddou, the UNESCO World Heritage Site was incredibly impressive!
Some activities included in the trip, such as a visit to an argan-oil cooperative, felt as much like sales presentations as educational experiences. But that was okay. We were contributing to the economy as we learned about the country’s history.
Some people, like my wife, slept between stops or scrolled through their phones. Not me. I viewed everything with so much interest. Time, for me, flew by quickly.
Did you ever feel unsafe?
Not once.
Both inside and outside of the medina require your attention. But that is really true anywhere you go.
Even when an overly aggressive vendor in the souks demanded I show him how much money I had, I wasn’t scared or intimidated. Rather, I laughed at him. It was comical. That tactic probably worked for him before. It wasn’t working with me.
Talking about the souks, we were warned of pickpockets. We didn’t experience any issues with that, but it is something you should be aware of.
Be Smart, Even When You Feel Totally Safe
A moment of truth here. We probably should have been more concerned for our safety the last night we were in Marrakech. We were outside of the medina for dinner and a show.
We closed the place down!
We initially chose to walk back to our riad. And it wasn’t a short walk. It was 1:30 AM, and the streets were empty. Anything could have happened to us.
Fortunately, a taxi offered a ride, and we accepted (after haggling over the price).
The smarter decision would have been to pay the $4 at the restaurant for a taxi ride back, but our jubilance and adrenaline (and obviously not the cocktails) from the amazing night had us believing the walk would be easy.
Morocco felt remarkably safe to us, but feeling safe should not replace making sensible decisions.
What was your favorite experience of the entire trip?
Oh wow…can I narrow it down to one or maybe two things?
What made the trip so fulfilling was that we stepped outside our comfort zone. This was unlike anything we’ve ever experienced. I was proud of our openness to everything.
If I had to narrow it down to one moment I’ll never forget, it would be watching the changing colors of the sky and sand as the sun rose in the Sahara Desert while I rode my camel back to our van.
But a close second was watching the sun rise over the Atlas Mountains in a hot air balloon. For a person like me who is scared to climb a ladder, to be 3,500 feet in an open basket was exhilarating!
What was your biggest disappointment?
There was a lot of construction taking place in Jemaa El-Fnaa during the day. The sound of jackhammers as I tried to enjoy some mint tea at the outdoor cafe was annoying, but with time it just became white noise.
But my two biggest disappointments involved food.
My bucket list of foods I wanted to experience included the snail soup at a food stall in Jemaa El-Fnaa and every different variation of traditional Moroccan tagine. Those boxes were checked.
The two other items on my list were the famous sheep’s head that was roasted underground and the fish fry within the souks. Those boxes went unchecked. I should have tried both, even if I wasn’t hungry at the time.
What should visitors know before they go?
Be Prepared to Haggle
When shopping, don’t expect to see price tags. And if there is a price tag, that’s just the starting point for negotiations. You will haggle with every merchant.
Dress With Local Customs in Mind
Morocco is generally more conservative in dress than many Western destinations. Visitors—particularly women—may feel more comfortable wearing clothing that covers the shoulders, chest, and knees, especially outside tourist-oriented areas.
Carry Moroccan Dirhams
Inside the medina, we used cash everywhere other than at restaurants and riads. The Moroccan dirham is a restricted currency, so it generally cannot be obtained or exchanged freely outside Morocco. Some ATMs restricted the amount of cash you could take out each day, so plan accordingly! But there are currency exchanges within the medina, and I found the exchange rates to be decent.
Marrakech Can Be Surprisingly Affordable
Your money goes really far in Marrakech. Gourmet, three-course dinners were rarely over $20 USD. Breakfast was included at the riads (I recommend the thousand-hole pancakes drizzled with honey, assorted soft cheeses, and freshly squeezed orange juice to start your day). And the leisurely lunches were $5 to $7 USD.
The Medina Is Walkable—but Uneven
Marrakech is flat and easy to walk. You’ll find some areas where the alleys are made of uneven stones. Just be careful.
Marrakech is truly one of the easiest places to get around on foot. But don’t be surprised if you encounter a stray cat along the way. They are everywhere!
Photographing Performers May Cost You
While in Jemaa El-Fnaa, if you take any pictures or videos of the snake charmers, be prepared to give them money or be hassled. I thought I was being discreet. As I sat at an outdoor café, I leaned my iPhone against a cup of mint tea and started to video the snakes. Within 15 seconds, one of the charmers started yelling at me. Another patron told me to put my phone away unless I wanted a shakedown.
Four Days in Marrakech May Be More Than You Need
If there was one thing I wish I had been told prior to our trip, it would have been the appropriate amount of time needed within the medina. We had four days in Marrakech. I wish we had spent fewer days solely in Marrakech and used that time to include another Moroccan destination, perhaps Fes, Casablanca, or Chefchaouen.
Would you go back?
Let me start by saying that there is nothing but praise from me about Marrakech, Morocco, and the people. I loved it all!
Would I go back to Morocco? Absolutely. I think I only scratched the surface of everything Morocco offers.
But would I go back to Marrakech? Yes, but only as part of a larger itinerary that included the places I listed above.
What did Morocco teach me about travel?
Morocco reminded me that the most rewarding travel often begins where familiarity ends.
It asked us to accept noise, crowds, uncertainty, unfamiliar customs, and experiences we could not fully understand. In return, it gave us extraordinary hospitality, unforgettable landscapes, and memories unlike anything we had collected before.
I still think about the changing colors of the Sahara at sunrise as our camels crossed the dunes. I remember looking around and realizing how far—geographically and personally—I had traveled from what felt comfortable.
That may be Morocco’s greatest gift to me: the reminder to travel with my mind, eyes, and ears open, and to resist judging a place simply because it works differently from home.
